Chapter 1 Introduction 1.1 Significance 1.2 Regular Waves 1.3 Irregular Waves 1.4 Outline of Chapters Chapter 2 Formulation of the Equations of Motion 2.1 Vector Analysis 2.2 Continuity Equation 2.3 Hydrostatic Pressure Equation 2.4 Euler Equations 2.5 Bernoulli Equation 2.6 Kinematic Boundary Conditions 2.7 Exercise Chapter 3 Linear Solutions to the Equations of Motion 3.1 Formulation of the Boundary Value Problem 3.2 Linearized 2D Wave Boundary Conditions 3.3 Solution to the Boundary Value Problem 3.4 Stationary Wave and Progressive Wave 3.5 Linear Dispersion Relationship 3.6 Wavelength and Wave Celerity 3.7 Waves Propagating on a Current 3.8 Exercise Chapter 4 Analysis of Wave Properties 4.1 Particle Kinematics for Progressive Waves 4.2 Pressure Field under Progressive Waves 4.3 Particle Kinematics for Stationary Waves 4.4 Pressure Field under Stationary Waves 4.5 Group Velocity 4.6 Wave Energy and Energy Flux 4.7 Oblique Waves 4.8 Exercise Chapter 5 Wave Transformation at the Nearshore Region 5.1 Conservation of Wave Number 5.2 Wave Refraction 5.3 Conservation of Wave Energy 5.4 Wave Breaking 5.5 Wave Diffraction 5.6 Exercise Chapter 6 Random Sea Surface 6.1 Representation of Random Surface Elevations 6.2 Wave Spectrum 6.3 Exercise Chapter 7 Statistical Analysis of Irregular Waves 7.1 Distribution of Surface Displacements 7.2 Distribution of Wave Amplitudes 7.3 Distribution of Wave Heights 7.4 Joint Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods 7.5 Exercise Chapter 8 Extreme Wave Statistics 8.1 Long-Term Wave Statistics
8.2 Data for Extreme Wave Analysis 8.3 Distribution Functions of Extreme Waves 8.4 Return Period and Return Value 8.5 Estimation of the Best-Fitting Distribution Function 8.6 Determination of Return Value 8.7 Selection of Return Period 8.8 Exercise Appendix A Appendix B Appendix C References
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